Season: Summer
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Planting Using Buffers
Purpose:
Vegetated buffers are trees, shrubs, and groundcover plants that catch sediment and other pollution before they reach lakes or streams. Trees and shrubs intercept raindrops and reduce their impact on the soil. Low-growing plants and the “duff” layer on the ground filter runoff. Root systems hold soil in place and absorb water and nutrients. In addition, buffers can enhance privacy, filter noise and wind, and attract birds, butterflies, and other wildlife.
Installation:
Select plants suitable to the growing zone, light, and soil conditions of the planting area. Ideally, native plants should be selected since these are better adapted to local conditions, fit in with the natural landscape, and do not require fertilizers or pesticides. Also, the most effective buffers should be as wide as possible and include a mix of trees, shrubs, and ground cover plants. Fall and spring are ideal planting times, but anytime during the growing season is acceptable. Plant as described below (from www.odonalsnurseries.com).
- Water the plant while it is still in its container. Dig a hole 2 times the width of the container and as deep as the soil level in the container.
- Remove the root ball from the container and loosen the outside layer of the root system either by scoring with a knife or pulling by hand.
- Set the plant in the middle of the hole. The top of the root ball should be at or slightly above normal ground level. If not, remove the plant and adjust the hole. Keep in mind that planting too deeply can kill the plant.
- Backfill 2/3 of the planting hole with soil. If the original soil is very poor and the plant requires better soil conditions, mix in no more than 25% loam and/or compost with the original soil.
- Fill the planting hole with water. This will result in a “moat” around the soil ball. When this drains completely, re-fill with water again.
- After the water has drained, backfill the rest of the hole to ground level and gently press the soil down to remove air pockets. Next, form a circular mound of soil around the planting hole. Formation of this “ring” around the hole will help future watering and rain sink into the ground.
- Water thoroughly once more to remove any remaining air pockets.
- Place no more than 2” to 4” of mulch around the plant, but keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk or branches emerging from the root ball. Cover leftover bare soil with additional mulch or move to areas where it will not erode into the lake.
Materials:
Plants and bags of compost and loam can be purchased from local nurseries.
Maintenance:
Year One
Deep, weekly watering is a must during the first year of planting. Most plants that die in the first season do so because of inadequate watering. Make sure that the water reaches the depth of the root ball. The “ring” around the plant helps the water sink into the ground instead of running off. Planting areas can be weeded but should not be raked.
After One Year
After the first year, you should only need to water if there is a lack of normal rainfall. Once the plants are well established, you can let the planted area naturalize so that you do not need to replenish mulch or weeds. The “duff” layer of leaves and pine needles will serve as natural mulch.
Applying Fertilizer
If plants appear to be growing well, they should not require fertilization. Fertilizers can actually harm newly developing roots, and summer/fall applications can prevent shrubs and trees from hardening off in time for winter. Shrubs and trees should only be fertilized in early spring and only after a soil test has been performed.
Transplanting:
You can save money by transplanting native plants into your buffer area. Keep in mind, however, that the mortality rates of transplants are relatively high. Here are some general transplanting guidelines:
- Make sure to ask for landowner permission before harvesting, and do not take too many plants from any one area. Do not remove plants next to lakes or streams.
- Transplant in the early spring or late fall when the plants are dormant. This reduces trauma to their root systems.
- Choose sturdy-looking plants. Dig up the root ball as much as possible (extend your digging area at least to the width of the plant’s branches.) Once your transplant has been replanted, water frequently until well established.
Credit: Maine DEP, Portland Water District.
Part of the Conservation Practices for Homeowners Factsheet series, available at: https://www.maine.gov/dep/land/watershed/materials.html -
Grub Management
Grubs (a.k.a. larval beetles) feed on grass roots. Some grubs are a natural part of all lawns, but too many can create a problem, so grub management is important. Improving soil health and building your lawn’s root system will help ward off grub infestations.
What constitutes a problem?
Use a shovel to cut a 1-foot by 1-foot square of turf and pull it back. If you count more than ten grubs in that area, then you may have a grub population that is large enough to damage your lawn.
Fight back
In northern New England, the best way to naturally combat grubs is by using beneficial nematodes. North Country Organics offers a mixture of two different types of nematodes in their Grub Guard product. The different types of nematodes work at different levels of the soil to combat grubs.
Carefully follow package instructions when applying nematodes to ensure maximum effectiveness. Keep in mind that nematodes are living creatures, so applying a pesticide at the same time will kill them before they can get rid of the grubs.
Grubs
Treating for grubs should not be something that you will have to do forever. As your soil becomes a healthy and diverse ecosystem, your lawn will be less susceptible to grub damage!
Credit: Cumberland County Soil & Water Conservation District.
Learn more at: http://cumberlandswcd.org/site/yardscape-2/ -
Ants
Ants are a natural part of a healthy lawn ecosystem. You should be concerned with keeping them out of your house but not out of your lawn.
Ants are your lawn’s friend!
Ants prey on the larvae of flies and fleas and naturally aerate soil. They should only be considered a problem if they are getting into your house or if they are European Fire Ants, which sting.
Control Methods
- Pour hot, soapy water into the nest. This will kill some of the ants and force others to relocate.
- Sprinkle cornmeal around your home. Eating cornmeal will make ants thirsty, and they will drink water until they burst.
- Use diatomaceous earth or boric acid dust to dehydrate and kill them. Caution should be used with these substances, especially if anyone in your family has lung problems. Be sure to follow all safety instructions that come with the product.
- If you discover an indoor nest, spread corn meal, then use a vacuum with a HEPA filter to capture as many ants as possible. Seal and dispose of the bag immediately.
Keeping Ants Outside
To keep ants from moving into your house, there are a variety of things you can try:
- Use silicone caulking to seal cracks and crevices that could provide access. Check around baseboards, moldings, pipes, outlets, ducts, sinks, toilets, etc.
- Keep the kitchen as clean as possible. Any food that is not sealed in an airtight container or in the fridge could attract ants.
- Clean up all spills right away, bring compost outside daily, and store garbage in airtight containers.
- Ants could be attracted to pet food as well, so don’t leave pet dishes out and full of food constantly.
- Replace rotten wood and keep moist areas well-ventilated to deter carpenter ants from establishing colonies.
Pesticides
Controlling ants with pesticides is not recommended for a couple of reasons, in addition to the health issues associated with pesticides in general.
- About 95% of ants never leave the nest, so if you use pesticides to kill the ones that are foraging for food, you’ll only be killing 5% of the total population.
- Using pesticides on indoor nests has been shown to cause the colony to split and establish two completely separate nests, doubling your problem.
Credit: Cumberland County Soil & Water Conservation District.
Learn more at: http://cumberlandswcd.org/site/yardscape-2/